Tuesday, April 2, 2019
Jounral Entry - Money Bags
It has been a while since my last major post; with talks, lectures, a book and a study under way my time has been consumed by tapping away on a keyboard. The talks and lectures are finished for the year. The book which is a guided to 17th century New York and New Netherland Inventories is almost complete.
The book is a short guide written in a similar way as the blog posts but with all the citations needed for those looking for primary sources on a specific topic. Topics include an exspansion and additonal information on Japanese, Turkish, Icelandic, Faroe Island and Scandie goods imported to the Americas, a recap on textiles plus new topics we have yet to pounce on. However, for those who need two or more primary sources to prove something existed... you are all set !
The study that is underway covers new information on economics and trade between Native Americans and the early settlers. The issue being the development of money bags by the Indigenous and the colonist who craved them. Their desire to own these bags lead some to trade fairly but others to theft and even assault.
Why would the colonist go to great lengths and risk all to own these bags? So far, It appears to be value. These hand crafted handbags were the Hermes Berkins of their day !
A word to the wise. I came across a blog post on a popular site published a couple weeks after my post about Japanese robes and their use in New York. While the poster made many claims the citations provided don't mention how they knew they were Japanese robes. Unfortunately, the author even provided an example of an old surviving robe from England and claimed it was a "Japonse" (a dialect variation)... but it is likely an Indian banyan... and most definitely not a Japon nor something that was worn in New York. (Japons didn't have fitted sleeves !) This was disappointing because it was written by a doctoral student in art history at Yale University who didn't do their homework. So, when in doubt... ask for the original quote and judge for yourself.
While the book and study are in process... the blog will be taking a break.
Friday, February 22, 2019
Laundry Machines
They didn't have them...
" "Aureum vellus, oder guldin Schatz und Kunst-Kammer. Rorschach am Bodensee: [s.n.,] 1598. (Plate 21) Hand-colored woodcut."
Washing Contracts:
The people of New Netherland - from New Amstel, Delaware to Schenectady, NY - were probably some of the most well washed people in the colonial world. This is not surprising, as when people are lifted up to middle class status they tend to take on practices that are pleasurable and that differentiate. One item that seems to be on many people’s minds…is the laundry.
Who does the laundry is sometimes defined in contracts whether for orphans, independent contractors, or indentured servants. It is listed right next to shelter and the food.
“Indenture of Gillis Jansen as farm servant to Cornelis Claessen Swits, …for a term of 6 consecutive [years beginning] the tenth of October last past, to serve…to farming…he, Gillis Jansen, promising to serve…for which services he shall annually receive as wages the sum of eighty-three and one third Carollus guilders, amounting in six years to the sum of five hundred Carolus guilders, provided that the aforesaid Cornelis Claessen Swits promises to supply him, Gillis, during his bounded time with food, drink, washing and lodging, according to the usage and custom of farmers of this country.” Dec 1st, 1642
“…for which he, Tonis Cray, shall [be] pay for every two English rods of fence [chopped & made] one week’s board, lodging and washing,…” 1st of Dec. 1642
A contract does not usually stipulate how often or the time of year the laundry has to be done. However, the Gillis Jansens’s requires annual payments. It could be assumed that he would get is clothes washed at least once a year. But it also does not state how often Jansen’s drink and food rations should be administered. So, one cannot assume the washing was only once a year. However, Tonis Cray’s contract is for four week and has the washing being done once a week. What is more interesting is that a laborer - possibly carpenter - is demanding a certain standard of living that people in other parts of America are living significantly below.
It appears that the laundry was done even in winter. Two continental paintings by Hendrick Avercamp include people out on the ice doing laundry in the fridged waters. In one example, a woman in a working class jacket is kneeling on the ice, two hands are holding onto a red garment. The garment is directed through a circular whole in the ice into the lake. In another painting, a circular whole is to the left of the washer who has a laundry basket with “whites” in it. He too is in working class clothes and is standing, facing a clothes line. One red garment in rectangular shape is already thrown over the line to air dry, as he holds a second red garment half hung.
Who is doing the laundry is alluded to in the New Netherland papers. Avercamp’s Netherland paintings clearly show a woman and a man each doing small batches of laundry in the winter season, both linen and colored. Though, it appears that both men and women took on the job of larger scale laundry washing in New Netherland. The two examples, below show that the man, Roelantsen, may of done the laundry himself, though he could of easily of hired out the service. The other example is clear on who will be doing the laundry.
“Adam Roelantsen, plaintiff, vs. Gillis de Vooht, defendant, for laundry money. Plaintiff demands payment for washing defendant’s linen. Defendant says that he is not offering to pay less in payment for the washing, only that the year is not yet expired. Plaintiff is ordered to fulfill the term of the contract and then to demand payment.” 6th of Sept. 1640
“…to be his [ Claes Willemse van Coppernoll’s] foreman on the farm at Cattskill, and his [Jan Conell’s] wife to do such other services as may be needed there; and that for the sum of 42 good, merchantable beaver pelts, one half to be paid next winter in wheat, at market price, and the other half at the end of his term of service in beavers; his wife shall be furnished with soap to wash for herself and the others on the farm;…” 1678, June 18th - June 18th 1678
Jan Conell’s contract is most interesting, because it takes place in the Cattskills and demonstrates like the Gillis Jansen and Tonis Cray contracts that farmers, laborers, indentured servants and similar were regularly having at least their linens washed. This brings the standard of living up significantly compared to other American colonies.
How the Dutch came to be so clean possibly has as much to do with being in the right place and the right time as it does with being of the right income. The Dutch during the 17th century lifted over 60% of its population out of subsistance farming status to middle class. Even the Dutch milk maid saw an increase in status. Though, one of the lowest paid persons in the Netherlands and Flanders, the Dutch and Flemish paid their maids more than another nation. With Dutch, Flemish and their immigrant workers having higher incomes per job than their counterparts in other nations their consumption and quality of life excelled. They therefore were ready and able to adopt new habits and life styles that reflected their new found advantages.
Washing Tubs:
Washing tubs are found in a number of inventories. Gysbert van Imbroch 1665 of Wildewijk (modern Kingston) has "two washtubs one large and one small". Sigismundus Lucas, 1681 a "washing 'tubb'" and "one tub" more. Thomas Palmer 1681 of NYC also had three wash tubs. The Widow Mary Masters 1702 of NYC had 3 wash tubs and a smoothing iron. Abraham Turk 1787 had "1 large wash tub, 2 small do." As you can see, three washing tubs seems to be a standard in New Netherlands and New York.
Smoothing Irons, Brushes, Presses, Mangles and a Clothing line:
Smoothing irons and clothing brushes were rather common too. Jan Reynersen 1665 at Fort Orange had "one smoothing iron". Imrboch 1665 who has three washing tubs also had a clothing press (a free standing piece of furniture and "one clothes brush". Imbroch also had a mangle which was a long wooden paddle usually decorated and used for smoothing out bed sheets, plus a "clothing line". Sybrant van Schaick a brewer 1686 also had "1 cloth brush". Van Macken 1664 had both a mangle and "stick pin" which may have been the paddle used for washing or some sort of "roller pin" co-located with the mangle.
Starch:
Starch was also common, Gerrit Bril 1659 - in New Amsterdam headed back to New Amstel - had "a square box with starch and washing blue". There are so many mentions of Starch and blue wash or blue starch it seems it was something accessible to most people.
Washing boards and Planks:
Something interesting pops up in 1787 in an German inventory in Up-State NY, "1 board 00:00:04, 1 washing bench 00:00:02". the inventory is in German. Translation books have the washing bench as a horizontal plank or board that the washing tub is set on. This raises the tub to standing height. The board located with the plank is likely a washing board with a ribbed surface.
I hope this provided a quick gimps into who and how people got their washing done. Washing was not done daily or every other day like in modern times. A skim through 19th and 20th century history and washing into modern times finds that people on average wore their underclothes all week long as one corporation found out the hard way in the 1940s. Until the invention and mass acquisition of laundry machines laundry was done at most weekly and more likely the further you go back in time, monthly or less. In New Netherland due to there being a a local business and small home laundries operating, linen and likely stockings could be washed as often as weekly for even the labor class based on some of the contracts that have been preserved.
" "Aureum vellus, oder guldin Schatz und Kunst-Kammer. Rorschach am Bodensee: [s.n.,] 1598. (Plate 21) Hand-colored woodcut."
Washing Contracts:
The people of New Netherland - from New Amstel, Delaware to Schenectady, NY - were probably some of the most well washed people in the colonial world. This is not surprising, as when people are lifted up to middle class status they tend to take on practices that are pleasurable and that differentiate. One item that seems to be on many people’s minds…is the laundry.
Who does the laundry is sometimes defined in contracts whether for orphans, independent contractors, or indentured servants. It is listed right next to shelter and the food.
“Indenture of Gillis Jansen as farm servant to Cornelis Claessen Swits, …for a term of 6 consecutive [years beginning] the tenth of October last past, to serve…to farming…he, Gillis Jansen, promising to serve…for which services he shall annually receive as wages the sum of eighty-three and one third Carollus guilders, amounting in six years to the sum of five hundred Carolus guilders, provided that the aforesaid Cornelis Claessen Swits promises to supply him, Gillis, during his bounded time with food, drink, washing and lodging, according to the usage and custom of farmers of this country.” Dec 1st, 1642
“…for which he, Tonis Cray, shall [be] pay for every two English rods of fence [chopped & made] one week’s board, lodging and washing,…” 1st of Dec. 1642
A contract does not usually stipulate how often or the time of year the laundry has to be done. However, the Gillis Jansens’s requires annual payments. It could be assumed that he would get is clothes washed at least once a year. But it also does not state how often Jansen’s drink and food rations should be administered. So, one cannot assume the washing was only once a year. However, Tonis Cray’s contract is for four week and has the washing being done once a week. What is more interesting is that a laborer - possibly carpenter - is demanding a certain standard of living that people in other parts of America are living significantly below.
It appears that the laundry was done even in winter. Two continental paintings by Hendrick Avercamp include people out on the ice doing laundry in the fridged waters. In one example, a woman in a working class jacket is kneeling on the ice, two hands are holding onto a red garment. The garment is directed through a circular whole in the ice into the lake. In another painting, a circular whole is to the left of the washer who has a laundry basket with “whites” in it. He too is in working class clothes and is standing, facing a clothes line. One red garment in rectangular shape is already thrown over the line to air dry, as he holds a second red garment half hung.
Who is doing the laundry is alluded to in the New Netherland papers. Avercamp’s Netherland paintings clearly show a woman and a man each doing small batches of laundry in the winter season, both linen and colored. Though, it appears that both men and women took on the job of larger scale laundry washing in New Netherland. The two examples, below show that the man, Roelantsen, may of done the laundry himself, though he could of easily of hired out the service. The other example is clear on who will be doing the laundry.
“Adam Roelantsen, plaintiff, vs. Gillis de Vooht, defendant, for laundry money. Plaintiff demands payment for washing defendant’s linen. Defendant says that he is not offering to pay less in payment for the washing, only that the year is not yet expired. Plaintiff is ordered to fulfill the term of the contract and then to demand payment.” 6th of Sept. 1640
“…to be his [ Claes Willemse van Coppernoll’s] foreman on the farm at Cattskill, and his [Jan Conell’s] wife to do such other services as may be needed there; and that for the sum of 42 good, merchantable beaver pelts, one half to be paid next winter in wheat, at market price, and the other half at the end of his term of service in beavers; his wife shall be furnished with soap to wash for herself and the others on the farm;…” 1678, June 18th - June 18th 1678
Jan Conell’s contract is most interesting, because it takes place in the Cattskills and demonstrates like the Gillis Jansen and Tonis Cray contracts that farmers, laborers, indentured servants and similar were regularly having at least their linens washed. This brings the standard of living up significantly compared to other American colonies.
How the Dutch came to be so clean possibly has as much to do with being in the right place and the right time as it does with being of the right income. The Dutch during the 17th century lifted over 60% of its population out of subsistance farming status to middle class. Even the Dutch milk maid saw an increase in status. Though, one of the lowest paid persons in the Netherlands and Flanders, the Dutch and Flemish paid their maids more than another nation. With Dutch, Flemish and their immigrant workers having higher incomes per job than their counterparts in other nations their consumption and quality of life excelled. They therefore were ready and able to adopt new habits and life styles that reflected their new found advantages.
Washing Tubs:
Washing tubs are found in a number of inventories. Gysbert van Imbroch 1665 of Wildewijk (modern Kingston) has "two washtubs one large and one small". Sigismundus Lucas, 1681 a "washing 'tubb'" and "one tub" more. Thomas Palmer 1681 of NYC also had three wash tubs. The Widow Mary Masters 1702 of NYC had 3 wash tubs and a smoothing iron. Abraham Turk 1787 had "1 large wash tub, 2 small do." As you can see, three washing tubs seems to be a standard in New Netherlands and New York.
Smoothing Irons, Brushes, Presses, Mangles and a Clothing line:
Smoothing irons and clothing brushes were rather common too. Jan Reynersen 1665 at Fort Orange had "one smoothing iron". Imrboch 1665 who has three washing tubs also had a clothing press (a free standing piece of furniture and "one clothes brush". Imbroch also had a mangle which was a long wooden paddle usually decorated and used for smoothing out bed sheets, plus a "clothing line". Sybrant van Schaick a brewer 1686 also had "1 cloth brush". Van Macken 1664 had both a mangle and "stick pin" which may have been the paddle used for washing or some sort of "roller pin" co-located with the mangle.
Starch:
Starch was also common, Gerrit Bril 1659 - in New Amsterdam headed back to New Amstel - had "a square box with starch and washing blue". There are so many mentions of Starch and blue wash or blue starch it seems it was something accessible to most people.
Washing boards and Planks:
Something interesting pops up in 1787 in an German inventory in Up-State NY, "1 board 00:00:04, 1 washing bench 00:00:02". the inventory is in German. Translation books have the washing bench as a horizontal plank or board that the washing tub is set on. This raises the tub to standing height. The board located with the plank is likely a washing board with a ribbed surface.
I hope this provided a quick gimps into who and how people got their washing done. Washing was not done daily or every other day like in modern times. A skim through 19th and 20th century history and washing into modern times finds that people on average wore their underclothes all week long as one corporation found out the hard way in the 1940s. Until the invention and mass acquisition of laundry machines laundry was done at most weekly and more likely the further you go back in time, monthly or less. In New Netherland due to there being a a local business and small home laundries operating, linen and likely stockings could be washed as often as weekly for even the labor class based on some of the contracts that have been preserved.
Wednesday, January 16, 2019
March 21st, 2019 - Talk at Historic Huguenot Street in New Paltz, NY
Date: Thursday, March 21st, 2019 at 7:00 PM
The Wardrobes and Fashion of 17th Century Hudson Valley
We'll dive into the wardrobes and hampers of some of our earliest settlers. Including the farmer Jan Gerritsen & Goertje Huybertse 1664, the Dutch doctor Gysbert van Imbroch & his French wife Rachel Monger de la Montagne 1665. We'll find out why Icelandic, Flemish and Native American stockings were used and why the textiles serge and laken were all important. We'll also get to know the Dutch 'vlieger', the fabulous 'tabaard' gown and a surprise garment from the far east that was popular with both the Dutch and French. We'll use primary sources from personal probate inventories to bills of lading and even shop and store inventories to uncover how the people of the Hudson Valley dressed from the 1630s to 1700.
Their information:
Historic Huguenot Street
88 Huguenot Street
New Paltz, NY 12561
Tuesday, January 8, 2019
March 16th, 2019 - Two Talks at Boston History Camp !
Four Yellow Love Drawers: A (Early) Modern Married Couple's Wardrobe
Why would a good man need bright red drawers? Why are hers yellow? And what were love drawers? We'll dive into the personal wardrobes and hampers of New Yorkers and explore the various types, colors and styles of drawers that were worn on the streets of 17th Century Manhattan.
Vikings in New York and Delaware
While the raiding of other people comes to an end in the 12th century, Viking culture and material goods continues on in Iceland and the Faroe Islands through to the 14th Century. Icelandic and Faroe Island knitwear, textiles such as wadmal and other goods made from the same technology introduced by the Vikings will be imported to New Sweden and New Netherland through to the middle of the 17th Century.
See You There !
While the raiding of other people comes to an end in the 12th century, Viking culture and material goods continues on in Iceland and the Faroe Islands through to the 14th Century. Icelandic and Faroe Island knitwear, textiles such as wadmal and other goods made from the same technology introduced by the Vikings will be imported to New Sweden and New Netherland through to the middle of the 17th Century.
See You There !
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